You'll Be Maaaaaaaad About Goat If You Follow This Chef's Recipe (2024)

You can't rush goat, says chef Kevin Onyona. To make the meat tender, you need to cook it a long time — but not too long. Ryan Kellman/NPR hide caption

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Ryan Kellman/NPR

You'll Be Maaaaaaaad About Goat If You Follow This Chef's Recipe (2)

As the host of the Goats and Soda blog, I wanted to learn a little bit more about goats.

At the top of my list: How do you cook goat meat?

That's the question I put to Kevin Onyona, who cooks goat at the Swahili Village restaurant in Beltsville, Md. The Kenyan-born chef was also in charge of preparing the goat stew served up at the Smithsonian Folklife Festival earlier this summer, as part of the Kenya exhibits.

"Goat, it is easy to mess up," he told me. "It's a very tough meat if you don't get it right. You gotta break down that meat, and you got to give it love."

And you've got to take your time. "If you rush goat, just forget it," Onyona said.

So throwing a hunk of goat on a grill is not enough. For soft, succulent goat, Onyona bakes the meat after grilling it, to break down the sinewy muscle even further. He also adds salt, pepper and meat tenderizer.

That goat meat had better be swimming in water for a nice, long simmer, says Kevin Onyona. Spices and vegetables will be tossed in later. NPR hide caption

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NPR

You'll Be Maaaaaaaad About Goat If You Follow This Chef's Recipe (4)

That goat meat had better be swimming in water for a nice, long simmer, says Kevin Onyona. Spices and vegetables will be tossed in later.

NPR

But at the Folklife Festival, Onyona was serving stewed goat. And for that, he devotes a couple of hours of cooking.

First, he boils chunks of goat meat for about an hour, with "a lot of water," he says. You don't want to keep adding water during the 2 1/2-hour cooking time, or that'll interfere with the seasoning of the meat. So fill that pot to the brim at the start. Onyona also puts chunks of goat bone in the mix, for added flavor. And garlic.

Should the pot be covered?

"Covered, uncovered, whatever!" he says.

After about half an hour, Onyona adds his seasonings: cumin, curry, cardamon, the Indian spice combo known as garam masala. "There's a very strong Indian presence in Kenya," he says, "and a lot of exchange in seasonings."

After another 30 minutes of boiling, he adds lots of chopped vegetables: onions, tomatoes and peppers of all colors.

He does not add salt. "All the seasonings have a little bit of sodium," he explains (which may not technically be true, but who am I to argue with a master of goat?).

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After boiling the stew for about 45 more minutes, he turns the heat down to a simmer. "You don't want to break the meat down too much," he explains.

At the very end of the marathon boil, he adds lots more spices: coriander, turmeric, ginger, garlic, fennel seeds, cumin, cinnamon, paprika. "A little bit of everything," Onyona says. The last thing you add is cilantro, after you finish cooking, "for color and aroma."

The end result should be meat that is tender but not completely broken down. "You can chew it a little bit," he says.

The stew is served with the bones on the plate as well. If there are no bones, he says, Kenyans will not believe it's a goat dish. "They love to pick up the bone, suck on the marrow."

And how does the goat stew taste?

I had never eaten goat before the festival. But I dug in. The meat was rich, mouth-wateringly tender. And it had a subtle heat from the spices.

The goat almost melted in my mouth, yet I could definitely sink my teeth into it.

I shared my rave review with one of Onyona's fellow cooks at the festival, Victor. Victor got a look of rapture in his eyes and said, "That is goat, now, that is goat!"

You'll Be Maaaaaaaad About Goat If You Follow This Chef's Recipe (2024)

FAQs

What is goat in cooking? ›

Goat meat is the meat of the domestic goat (Capra hircus). The common name for goat meat is simply "goat meat", while meat from young goats can be called "kid meat", capretto (Italian), and cabrito (Spanish and Portuguese). In South Asian cuisine, mutton refers to goat meat.

What is the preferred cooking method for goat? ›

Goat meat is best cooked low and slow to achieve tenderness and retain juiciness. Popular cooking techniques include braising, stewing, roasting, grilling, and even curry or stir-frying.

Is goat hard to cook? ›

Since it is a relatively tough meat, it is important that you tenderize it correctly and that you cook it slowly at low temperatures. Goat meat also must be cooked with a lot of moisture. The low fat content of goat meat means that it can dry out and toughen quickly when exposed to high, dry cooking methods.

Which goat meat cooks faster? ›

3) Loin: The loin is a tender and relatively lean cut of goat meat, perfect for quick cooking methods such as pan-searing, grilling, or broiling.

Is goat meat better than chicken? ›

Goat meat is actually lower in calories, total fat, saturated fat, and cholesterol than not just lamb, pork and beef meats, but also chicken meat. This makes goat meat the healthier red meat, even better than chicken.

Is goat meat better than pork? ›

Goat meat is a healthier alternative to other red meats like beef, lamb, and pork. It is naturally lean, very nutritious and has a range of health benefits. The meat has less fat, less saturated fat, more iron, and about the same amount of protein compared to beef, pork, lamb, or chicken.

Is goat meat tougher than beef? ›

Muscles that work are tough; muscles that don't are tender. Cows have both of these, goats are mainly tough. The tough meat tastes better, the tender meat is bland.

Does goat taste better than beef? ›

Goat meat has a strong, gamey flavor, sweeter than lamb but less sweet than beef. Cooking it with lots of flavor and spices helps complement its unique flavor.

What is goat meat called in USA? ›

Goat meat is called either cabrito or chevon. Cabrito is from kids harvested within the first week of birth. Chevron is from older kids. Goat meat is leaner than poultry and other red meats, low in fat and cholesterol and is a source of conjugated linoleic acid.

Why is my goat meat chewy? ›

Goat meat is lean, which means it contains less saturated fats and cholesterol. However, while its leanness is seen as a nutritional advantage, it also means that goat meat can dry out quickly during cooking. To counter this, cooking goat meat in enough water is best to avoid an overly chewy eating experience.

Why don't we eat goat meat? ›

> Fairbanks guesses most folks simply have no experience with eating goat – or perhaps have had an unpleasant one eating curry cooked with older goat, which might have a gamey taste or tough texture. > Another hurdle for goat meat: Consumers don't see it on menus.

How do you make goat meat not chewy? ›

Use wet cooking methods as opposed to dry. Braising and stewing are good cooking methods for less tender cuts of meat like goat. Flatten the meat with a tenderizing mallet or score it across the fibers with a sharp knife. This will break up the muscle fibers making them softer resulting in a more tender piece of meat.

Is older goat meat good? ›

The meat of older goats is darker and less tender, but juicier and more flavorful than kids. The meat from male goats is lighter in color and lower in fat. The meat from female goats is more desirable for steaks and chops because it is more tender.

What nationality eats goat meat? ›

Cabrito: typically, roast goat kid in Latin cultures. Chevon: adopted by Angora goat producers in the U.S. in the early 1920s and recognized by the USDA. Mutton: often used in India, South Asia, Caribbean. Chivito: usually a barbecued kid in Argentina, derived from the term chivo.

Is goat meat White or red meat? ›

Goat is classified as a red meat.

What type of meat is goat? ›

Goat is classified as a red meat.

Is pepperoni made from goat? ›

Pepperoni is made from pork or from a mixture of pork and beef.

What is the other name for goat meat? ›

Meat from goat is actually called chevon. However, don't beat yourself up over being mistaken about the jargon of meat, as things work a little differently in India. Here, the word mutton is used interchangeably between sheep and goat, but since Indians mostly consume goat, it is the widely accepted term for goat meat.

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